SV Ocean Star---Oahu to Washington State

Here's a few pics from my most recent crossing from Hawaii to Washington State, on board the 45 foot Cape George Cutter one off vessel, Ocean Star. The passage took just 15 days which is quite respectable time with great company, favorable weather, and a perfect end destination---Center Island in the San Juans. 

Back in the land of "Normal"

It's now been well over two months that I've been back in the United States after another interesting run in the eastern hemisphere. Last time it was a journey into a post disaster zone with a predetermined goal to see what I could do to make a difference following the devastating effects of Super Typhoon Hayan. For me it was the prefect undertaking; to venture at the last minute to a country I knew little about in order to get off the couch and try to help people less fortunate than myself find solutions to their crises.

I didn't know what to expect (except I envisioned myself running through a survival situation, plucking children out from under the rubble and such...). Of course, that image was far from reality, but I was lucky enough that the one organization I was accepted by was All Hands Volunteers, who not only were willing to do the dirty work that many other aid groups avoid, but were also a hell of a lot of fun to work for. After less than a month of the most rewarding work of my life, I was ready to get back out there any way I could.

The second trip to the East was slightly less exciting, crewing for a 76 year old boat owner from Georgia who needed his yacht delivered back to the states. I could go into details but I will refrain to prevent you from destroying your computer in sheer disgust. In any case I either had a position on a yacht that was likely to meet Davy Jones at the bottom of the sea, or I would have to decide to take a big leap of faith and try my hand at experiencing being homeless in Asia. After 9 days, a near fatal run in with a fishing vessel, and many other shipboard disasters the decision was made for me.

Of course, I needed to figure out how to survive in such an alien and fascinating part of the world with hardly a dime to my name. First I posted up with the Buddhists to practice the art of Vipassana for 10 days. Ten very-long-and-challenging- days I must say. But I learned a lot and like to think that ultimately it helped me to grow in some ways rather than to become totally whack in the head.

The following months had a lot of sleeping in the open, a lot of eating groundscored rice, and a lot of busking in the streets. After a week long stint as the only foreigner at the Democratic Reform Movement in Bangkok, eventually I made enough money playing in the streets to buy a ticket to Australia, where I hoped my prospects would be better...but that's for the next story.

Coming soon to a blog near you.

Chantiburi

I'm currently in Chantiburi, Thailand, having made it here after a week in Manila. My stay in Manila was very VIP, thanks to getting the proper tour from my friend Chiqui. I met loads of awesome people and have great new friends from Manila and around the world. I even got to catch up with Erin and Jon from my time with All Hands, which was great. Most importantly, I met the Philippines most famous model at the bar El Chupacabra.

After flying to Bangkok, I was tired of cities and ready to see some place else. For just over a dollar I got a space on a train to a town right next to the Cambodian border, Aranprathet. The train was packed, and I was tired from all the stress of traveling. Unfortunately, like many border towns Aranprathet wasn't that exciting, so after two days I worked my way to Chantaburi.

Tomorrow I will make my way to a Vipassana course close by where I will really dive into the traditions of meditation. In this course, you are not allowed to speak for ten days, a real introduction to the technique...I can't wait! Time for a little clearing of the mind in preparation for the adventures to come. After that---who knows!

The Next Adventure

It's been a few months since I last wrote, so I'll try and update you all on my latest exploits. At the end of November, I flew to the Philippines to try and help out after Typhoon Haiyan. I applied to many different organizations, and was accepted by All Hands Volunteers on Bohol.

The following weeks would definitely count among the best of my life. The work we were doing was mostly deconstruction of houses, schools and churches that had collapsed to make rebuilding possible. Each day was hard work that presented new challenges, and each night brought on another great party with new friends. It helped that the rum was cheaper than beer, a fantastic, but dangerous fact. Most importantly, the Filippino people were kind beyond words, and so very appreciative of our work.

In late December I returned to the United States to visit family for the holidays and to earn a few dollars to try and pay off my debts for flights and expenses incurred on the trip. I had a wonderful time catching up back home, but as usual after a few weeks I started getting restless again.

The next opportunity for travel and work was a position as a deckhand on a 55 foot sailboat headed back to the states from, of all places, the Philippines. I was stoked to be headed back! I flew to Cebu on the first of February and stepped aboard, excited to be on my way back to sea.

Unfortunately, the owner of the vessel (I won't mention any names) was totally whack, and after weeks of problems and unwise decisions, including a collision with a fishing boat at night, one equipment failure after the last, and a 660 NM voyage to nowhere, I decided it a prudent choice to jump ship. After all, I've got loads to do and I'm not ready to end up at the bottom of the sea just yet!

So I find myself in the a third world country halfway across the world from my home with $60 to my name, a backpack and my violin. Just like old times!

I'm now staying with my awesome friend Chiqui in Manila (20 million people---it's bloody crazy!) while I pull together a few dollars to continue on the road. Next stop if I'm successful is Thailand and then I would like to try to make my way towards Nepal and Tibet. The great Himalaya are calling, and the temptation is too great to resist.

 

 

 

Project Bohol

I'm off tomorrow to the island of Bohol in the Philippines to help with the disaster relief under the volunteer organization All Hands. On October 15th, the island was devastated by a 7.2 M_w earthquake, which was the most deadly earthquake to hit the Philippines in 23 years. The energy released was equivalent to 32 bombs being dropped on Hiroshima. Before there was much opportunity to recover, the island was hit by Typhoon Haiyan on November 8th, the strongest recorded storm to make landfall in history. So you can only imagine the havoc that the Philippines are trying to recover from right now. 

The island of Bohol has been famous worldwide for the Chocolate Hills, a popular tourist destination, and for being home to the smallest primate in the world. It's been known as a beautiful island with crystal clear waters and lush pockets of rain forest in the highlands. I just hope I can help in some small way to restore the place to more of its former glory. If possible, I will post updates from the islands, however it's hard to know what the communication system will be like if existent at all. But first, two days of flights and the joys of modern day transpacific travel... 

Typhoon Haiyan

As most of you know, Typhoon Haiyan hit the Philippines on November 7th, causing an unimaginable amount of damage. Haiyan is the strongest recorded tropical cyclone in history to make landfall, and has caused at least 10,000 deaths, probably a lot more. The Philippines are truly suffering right now, in what is probably the greatest natural disaster ever to hit the country. And this is a place that regularly gets more than it's share of earthquakes, floods, tsunamis, erupting volcanoes and typhoons. For those interested in helping out, here's a link to a NY Times article on easy ways to help the disaster victims. I am sure that every cent or minute of time will be much appreciated.

http://thelede.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/11/11/how-to-help-philippines-typhoon-victims/?_r=0












 

The Impossible Voyage

In 2007, when I was in the middle of trying to launch a record bid for the youngest solo circumnavigation, a very determined Canadian sailor was making his way around the world the hard way round. In all recorded history, only five sailors had sailed around the world against the prevailing winds and currents, and no one from Canada, or anywhere other than Europe for that matter, had ever successfully completed the voyage.  

Glenn Wakefield, a middle aged sailor from BC, left Victoria on September 23rd of that year in his sailboat Kim Chow, and made a voyage south to New Zealand, and then upwind through the world's roughest seas passing four of the five great capes, Stewart Island, Southeast Cape, Cape Leeuwin, and the Cape of Good Hope. It was an incredible act of seamanship, especially considering his boat was significantly smaller than any other that had made the attempt, and it wasn't an expensive, highly sponsored journey.

He was nearing the greatest cape of them all, Cape Horn, with the southern winter fast approaching when disaster struck. In horrendous seas, Kim Chow was severely damaged and Glenn's only escape pod, his liferaft, torn off the boat. With his family and loved ones back home in mind, Glenn made the only responsible decision at the time which was to abandon the voyage. In a brave rescue by the Argentine vessel Puerto Deseado, he was taken to Ushuaia, and from there made his way home.

But that wasn't the end of the story. This fall Glenn left Victoria again on a new boat West Wind II, which he had prepared for another circumnavigation with the lessons of the first trip in mind. So far everything is going well, and 70 days into his journey, he has rounded Stewart Island and is making his way into the southern ocean for another round. Glenn writes:

Position: 48.04 S, 163.50 E
 
Just as I thought, it was quite a night....I hung on to the yankee with the pole out running downwind till midnight. Then the wind shifted from northeast 25k to northwest 25 so after rolling in the yankee to the forestay I released the topping lift, lowering the pole to just inside the pulpit, released the sheet and the down haul from the pole then went back to the mast and hoisted the pole up the mast and secured it to the deck. I rolled out the stay sail to port with the main still down. Rolling out the stay sail also requires setting the running back stay on the windward side. The back stay adds support in the opposite direction to the pull on the stay sail furling gear which is set about half way between the spreaders and the top of the mast...I’m up two more times before dawn getting fully suited up each time before going on deck. Dawn has come and gone and I have had a cup of hot chocolate and radioed my position to Meri in Bluff on Fisherman’s radio. I ‘m going to make my oats now. There is still a gale blowing outside and the main halyard has taken it upon itself to drum out a constant rhythmic “rat-a-tat”, “rat-a- tat”, just to add a little more drama to the scene...I’ve been reading Alec Roses’s book My lively Lady about his trip around the world in 1964. He had a stuffed bear on board, whose name escapes me, but it became the other voice in his head who was constantly wanting to pull in everywhere and give up. He talks quite openly about it. I have to admit I have that same voice wanting to pull in and go home. I thought turning the corner and heading for Tasmania would have shut him up … I think it’s normal to have those thoughts. The size of this voyage is hard to put into perspective.  

Course 350 T Speed 4 knots Wind W 25 knots Waves W 3m Cloud 75% Temp 11 C Baro 1006 Miles in last 24 hrs: 105 nm


So fair winds to Glenn and West Wind II! You can follow his journey on his website  glennwakefieldaroundtheworld.com.